Repair Instructions

Controlled-Key Zero-Signal

Comptometer

Model H

copyright Oct. 1919
by
Felt & Tarrant Manufacturing Company
Chicago

General Remarks

    In repairing a disordered "Comptometer," it is necessary to first find the cause of the trouble. In a highly organized piece of machinery the difficulty may originate in a piece quite remote from whom it appears to be. If the original cause of the disorder is not surely located, it is useless to begin taking out mechanism with the hope of accidentally correcting it.
    The new form or zeroizing, or so-called canceling mechanism used in Model H, offers a means of tracing or locating the cause of the disorder more readily than with former models, as the act of zeroizing such machines separates the carrying and numeral wheel mechanism from the key actuating mechanism, thus isolating one mechanism from the other so that each may be operated and tested independently of the other. Again the independent arrangement allows the removal of the whole series of carrying mechanism in a unit, which to the experienced repairman will be found a still further means of isolation and a help in repair work.
    The first thing to do is to pull the zeroizing handle forward and release it. This separates the carrying mechanism and numeral wheels from the key-stroke and actuating mechanism, which will help to locate the trouble. Place your finger under the rock frame pivot shaft 865, located at the front of the machine, which is the shaft that rocks upward and forward when you cancel or clear the machine. While holding the shaft forward note the following: First, whether the wheels all zeroize correctly; second, whether the segment levers return correctly in each column by alternately striking all nine of the keys in each column; third, roll the numeral wheels with the finger until they show the nine in the proper position; then let them return slowly to determine whether they are free from obstruction and return under the spring action as they should. If free, they should return with a good sharp action. If the trouble is located by any of these tests, it will determine the column to be examined and whether it is in the key-actuating mechanism or in the carrying mechanism. Attention should be given to see that every spring is in its normal position and has not become unhooked, and that no foreign obstacle has become lodged in the mechanism. Sometimes pins, toothpicks, brush bristles, broom straws, wires or pieces of paper work in through the casing; or by removal of sight plate, are purposely shoved through and by moving the machine around become lodged in the delicate mechanism enough to interfere with its proper working. If in making the above tests the trouble does not show, then pull forward the zeroizing crank and let it return; then while depressing a key, watch the rock frame toggles (Part Nos. 1241, 823 and 865, see Fig. Nos. 1, 4 and 5). Before the key is depressed they should be in the position shown in Fig. 1, and after depressing in the position shown in Fig. 5. If the toggle lock does not make up, i.e. straighten out, as in Fig. 5 and the numeral wheels all register zero when the crank is pulled forward, place the finger on the shaft 865 and try to press it down. If it does not yield and the toggle lock does not make up under slight pressure, then depress the number (1) keys in each column until it does make up. It must be understood that these tests are merely to help in locating the trouble and form a means of isolating the groups of mechanism that perform certain functions in the operation of the machine. The instructions for the perfect adjustment of these trains of mechanism will be found under their special heading in "Learning the Action."
    If the machine is not locked; if every column carries at the right point; if no spring in any part of the machine is unhooked; and if satisfied that the trouble is not due to improper operating, it will then be necessary to examine and compare with one another the action of every column and try to locate the cause of the trouble. In case of finding it, put in a new part in place of the injured one. In case of failure to surely determine the cause of the trouble, report the number of the machine, describing the symptoms; or else ship the machine to the factory.
    If after putting in a new part it does not then work right, either the real cause of the difficulty has not been discovered, or the parts have not been properly replaced. Never try to change or adjust a new part. To do so must necessarily disorder it, because every new part will work in any machine of the same model without any change, and therefore it can not work correctly if changed in any way outside of the factory.
    Never try to take any part out, in the presence of others, until after you have taken that same part out and replaced it several times alone, at your own office.
    In case of failure to determine the true cause of the difficulty, report the number of the machine and describe just how it acts. If it is locked, tell in what column or columns. If it is working incorrectly, tell what mistakes it makes and illustrate with an example on which it makes an error, stating whether on duplex or single key operation; whether on rapid or slow operation, etc. A simple example in which the mistake occurs, like 78342 + 14623, or 364 × 28, or 42000 × 6, is the best illustration.

Learning the Action

(Important)

    Before making any attempt to repair a machine a clear idea of the function and action of each train of Mechanism should be analyzed by carefully examining its movements at each successive step as outlined in the following directions, and if possible comparing it with a machine of the same model known to be in good order.

Key-Controlling Mechanism

Complete Down Stroke

    Remove the machine from its case (see assembly No. 1, page 16) and, laying it on its left side, bottom side toward you, replace the canceling crank T-55.
    Now place your finger on the (4) key in the units column and while depressing it slowly note that the key stem 804, engages the lock lever 680½ (see Fig. 3 of drawings) which, through the foot near its rear end acting on the lateral arm of the segment lever bell crank 586, swings its vertical arms forward. This action releases the trigger connection T-672, allowing the trigger connection spring 773 to pull the trigger mechanism, including trigger 670, trigger link 871 and trigger connection T-672, toward the front of the machine. As the trigger moves forward the key stem now engages the segment lever and as it moves down, the rear end of the trigger drops in front of the touch-off bar (1/16 sq.) 691, the pin 674 in its front end having in the meanwhile engaged the accumulator locking hook T-683 and swung it upward to lift the pinion ratchet reverse lock 783, clear of the pinion ratchet 75. As the key goes on down it engages its corresponding key stop lever 592 and swings the half-round pin 599 on the lower end of key stop (even) 594 into a saw-tooth notch of the segment lever, while the key stop arm engaging the trigger 670 brings its vertical arm forward far enough to allow the trigger retainer (horizontal) 681½ to drop behind it (see Fig. 7). By the depression of the segment lever, during this action, the accumulator locking hook T-683 is held clear of the accumulator-wheel pin T-62, thus permitting the segment lever to return to its original position, as the key is released.

Partial Down-Stroke

    To follow the action of the mechanism on a partial key depression, put the key about half way down and letting it come up slowly, note that the segment lever T-580 does not follow the key back. Looking at the accumulator pins T-62 you will see that one of them is caught by the accumulator locking hook T-683 (as shown in Fig. 8 of the drawings), because the partial stroke did not carry the key stop arm down far enough to throw the locking hook out of locking position. The trigger 670 having been moved back by the partial depression, is brought into engagement at its rear end with the touch-off bar (1/16 sq.) 691 and pushes it back far enough to free the column lock retainer arm (left) 686 (see Fig. 6) and let it drop. This causes the segment lever locking hooks 682 to swing under the hook on segment levers and lock the keys in all other columns.
    Now go back and complete the unfinished stroke on the partially depressed key. The segment lever locking hook in this column, now being already in place, trips into locking position as the segment lever rises on completing the stroke, thus locking the keys in this column also.
    To unlock the machine depress the lock release key top 625 which is located near the (9) key in the units column. The stem of this key engages the column lock retainer shaft 688 which when depressed throws back the segment lever locking hooks 682 out of locking position and unlocks the machine.

Partial Up-Stroke

    Following the action of the pinion ratchet reverse lock 783 (see Fig. 3), as the segment lever T-580 moves upward, you will observe that the lower end of the reverse lock 783 slips into each notch of the pinion ratchet 75. This holds the key action locked against reversal at any point of the up-stroke short of its completion, when the lower rear end of the trigger slips off the trigger retainer (vertical) 681, thus removing the lock against reverse motion of the key.

Clearing by Zero Crank

    The function of the zero crank is to neutralize the whole machine; so that any locks set through key manipulation must be cleared in the neutralizing process.
    Pull the zero crank T-55 (see Fig. 9) forward slowly. This will cause release lever 907 to engage the forward shaft 688 of the column lock retainer and operate the column lock retainer, releasing all the segment lever locking hooks 682 and clearing the segment levers T-580 from their locks. At the same time the zero link lever 944 swings forward and engages the pin T-705 of the release plate 739, and throws the accumulator locking hook T-683 off of the accumulator pins T-62, thus unlocking the machine when left locked by a partial key depression.

Carrying Mechanism

    An understanding of the carrying by tens from one column to another can be obtained by examining the carrying mechanism in the front of the machine and its connecting parts (see Figs. 4 and 5). The sequence of action and the parts engaged in the carrying are as follows:
    With a small hook hold the front arm of the carrying bell crank T-162 in the second column and add 9 and l in the units column. You will now observe that the roll 133 on the carrying gear 830 has raised the carrying detent (hooked) 160 or (straight) T-161 off the escapement T-155 which moves just far enough for the carrying touch-off 156 on the escapement to engage and throw the locking dog T-707 out of the way of the front end of the carrying bell crank. Now let the carrying bell crank (you are holding with the hook) down slowly, and the escapement will be turned half way around by stored power in the carrying spring 204. In the meantime the escapement cam 153 will operate against the carrying roll 167 to throw the carrying bell crank into the accumulator T-61 where its pawl T-163, engaging a pin T-62 of the accumulator, turns the accumulator one place (see Fig. 5).
    The carrying is now completed and the carrying bell crank is returned to its normal position by the spring 213. Right here note the action of the carrying bell crank hook T-166 and its relation to the roll 86 on the segment lever T-580. This hook T-166 always holds its accumulator wheel T-61 locked against displacement when the parts rest in their normal position. When a key is depressed this hook disengages from the accumulator wheel, allowing the accumulator wheel to turn on the return stroke of a key, and re-engages the accumulator wheel at the end of its movement to prevent the wheel from turning too far. Being attached to and carried by the carrying bell crank T-162, it does not interfere with the carrying, but first moves with and then out of engagement with the accumulator wheel as the carrying takes place, then re-engages the accumulator wheel after the completion of the carrying movement.
    When duplexing, an additional operation in the carrying mechanism is required in order to delay the carrying so that it cannot take place until the segment lever T-580 has completed its up stroke.
    When two keys in adjacent columns are struck together you will note that the carry detaining hook (new) on the forward end of the carrying bell crank hooks T-166 rises in front of the escapement wheels T-155 so that if the latter is released from a carrying detent 160 or T-161, the carry detaining hook will catch and hold it until the segment lever in the higher order reaches the end of its up-stroke when the roll 86 on segment lever lifts the carrying hook T-166, causing the carry detaining hook to be thrown out of engagement with the escapement wheel and the carry of the tens then takes place to the higher order wheel.

Zeroizing (or Canceling)

    Introduction of this new train of mechanism requires special study by each repair man, and close reference to the drawings, Figs 1 through 9, should be made as well as study of the action of the machines.
    It will be found by those who study the action of this new mechanism that the theme or purpose is to isolate the key action from the accumulative train of mechanism such as the numeral wheels and carrying mechanism and allow the carrying spring power stored by key action to return the wheels to zero while so isolated.
    This isolation has many advantages, among which are the separating of parts that have formerly caused some trouble in getting locked by mismanipulation, thus breaking the lock and neutralizing efforts to stall or lock up a machine by malicious persons; but to the repair man it will be found a great help in locating trouble.
    With the left side of the machine toward you (see Fig. 9) pull the zero crank T-55 slowly forward and trace the action of the levers and link motion. It will be noted that the arm 938 rocks forward carrying the arm 981 of the rack frame actuating shaft 980 with it, thus rocking the shaft in its bearings at each side of the machine. This shaft 980 runs transversely across the machine near the front and may be seen by standing the machine on its rear end with bottom facing you while operating the zero handle or by locating it from the drawings. The function of this shaft is to actuate the rock frame (see Cut 19, page 22, and Figs. 1, 7 and 9) and thus either mesh or unmesh the carrying gears T-70 and 830 (see Fig. 1). The means by which this meshing and unmeshing is accomplished is through the toggle locks, parts 1241 and 823 (see Figs. 4 and 5). The toggle lever 1241 receives its action from the pins 983 in the links 982, which are pivoted to arms on the rock shaft 980 and ride on the shaft 183-K (Fig. 5) Thus the lock is made up as in Figs. 4 and 5 (which shows the normal condition) or not as in Fig. 1, which shows a zeroized condition.
    The rock frame is a housing for the carrying gears and their detents and is pivoted to the main frame by shaft 826 on which it swings to cause the meshing and unmeshing of the gears. The large carrying gear 830 is provided with two zero stop lugs 850 (see Cut 21, page 23). These lugs are on the back or right side of the gear as shown in Fig. 5, and during zeroizing engage zero stops 1246 through the reverse action of the carrying springs (see Fig. 2 and Cut 21) when the gears are unmeshed, thus stopping the gears so that the numeral wheels geared to the large carrying gears may be arrested in their zero position. (Which is a half shot over position with relation to the sight apertures in the face plate T-666.)
    When the zero crank T-55 reaches the limit of its forward throw another toggle lock (see Fig. 6) parts 991 and 990 forming the detaining toggle lock is brought into action through the shaft detaining arm 986 which as it is rocked forward with the actuating shaft 980 causes the toggle lock to be made up as shown in Fig. 6 and prevents the spring 1272 (see Cut 47) from rocking the shaft back. By letting go of the zero crank the spring 1269 (Fig. 9) returns the crank and its link mechanism but leaves the shaft 980 in its detained position, locked by the detaining toggle.
    The making up of the detaining toggle lock (Fig. 6) causes the arm 996 and pin 995 to be thrown forward pulling the link 993 and rocking the release bar 922 and its trip shaft 928 forward with it and causing the trip shaft 928 to engage the rear tails of the segment lever brakes.
    The neutral position of the rock frame and accumulative train of mechanism therein brought about by a zeroizing action is maintained until the operator presses any one of the keys of the machine which will break the detaining toggle lock and cause the remeshing of the carrying gears and the rock frame toggle locks (parts 1241 and 823, Fig. 5) at the front to be made up. This action may be traced by first clearing the machine with the zero crank, then place the machine with the bottom toward you and slowly depress a key. The downward action of the segment lever T-580 causes the brake T-220 to be thrown rearward and since, as explained, the trip shaft 928 of the detaining toggle release is in contact with all the brakes, it will be thrown rearward from its position in Fig. 6 causing the link 993 to rock the arm 996 and pin 995 rearward and break the detaining toggle releasing the shaft 980 so that its spring 1272 will return it and the rock frame to the normal position and thus re-entrain the gearing to the numeral wheels. All of this action is instantaneous but by repeated action it may be all traced out in the machine.

Subtraction Lever

    Operate the ninth column subtraction T-604 and by looking through frame work on left side of machine note how it lifts the carrying bell crank pawl T-163 out of engagement with the accumulator pins T-62 and prevents the accumulator wheel from turning when the carrying bell crank is thrown in by the escapement cam 153. The other orders may be seen from the bottom of the machine.

The Zero Signal Bell

    The purpose of this signal is to give audible notice that the machine has been cleared or zeroized when the operator strikes the first key in the performance of a calculation, thus relieving the operator of the question whether the machine was clear or not in event the operator has forgotten to take visible notice of the condition of the numeral wheels before starting to operate.
    The bell rings only upon operation of a key after the machine has been cleared or zeroized. This function is performed by the action supplied through the breaking of the toggle lock formed by the detaining toggle (see Cut 50 and Fig. 6). Clear the machine by pulling forward the zero crank. Then with machine turned on its right side with the bottom toward you, the action of the detaining toggle, its release trip bar and the bell mechanism may be watched as a key is depressed.

Directions for Oiling

Model H Comptometer

    Unless the machine is regularly and properly oiled, it will work hard and will not last; but it would be better not to oil it at all than to use an oil that will gum up the delicate mechanism.
    Use and recommend nothing but "Comptometer" Oil, which will not gum.
    It the machine is used only once or twice a week, oil once every three months. If used regularly eight hours a day by a rapid operator, oil each Monday morning.
    1. Set the machine with the back end toward you. Put one drop of oil on the back of each (9) key stem close up under the celluloid top. Do the same with each (8) key while holding down the (9) key in same column. Then each (7) key while holding down the (8) key in the same column. And so on with all the keys.
    2. Set the machine on a level desk and put three drops of oil in each oil hole back of the (9) keys.
    3. Clear machine; strike (8) key in the units column. Put eight or ten drops of oil in the oil hole under the (1) key in that column; also in the oil hole in the face-plate between the units and tens columns below where the answer shows, after pressing back the spring that closes the oil hole. Operate the (9) key twenty or thirty times.
    Clear machine. Set up 8 on the register in the tens column. Put eight or ten drops of oil in the hole under the (1) key in the tens column; then in the oil hole in the face-plate between the tens and hundreds column. Operate the 90 key twenty or thirty times. Repeat for each column.
    4. Pull forward the zero crank and put three drops of oil in each hole on the right side of key plate near the front and work zero crank back and forth. Then with crank in normal or rearward position put another drop of oil in the rear one of the two holes.

Parts

How to Remove and Replace

Don't Begin to Remove Parts before You Are Positively Sure You Have Located the Cause of the Trouble.

    Unless you have been specially trained to repair the Model H Comptometer, or duly authorized and instructed by the home office, only such repairs as may be accomplished by the removal of parts not marked with a star in the assembly index may be undertaken. Repair parts will not be furnished you for the more complicated repairs.
    In the removal and replacing of parts don't attempt anything on your own initiative; follow the instructions of this book to the letter; a deviation may cause misadjustment of parts which will require that the machine be returned to the factory for readjustment and thus cause unnecessary delay.
    Experimenting on repairs is a dangerous proposition and has caused the downfall of more than one repairman. Don't try it.
    Don't remove parts unless you have the parts at hand to make the repair. A dismantled machine is a bad thing to have lying around for more reasons than one.
    Don't loosen the left hand screw of the tie rod which holds the No. 16 eccentric frame tubes except where so directed in the instructions.
    Don't lift the machine by the keys.
    For use in taking out and putting in parts of the mechanism there are three brass handled rods to correspond to the three sizes of shafts used in the machine. These rods are called the "assembler's rods" and must always be used in taking out and clearing the shafts.
    Always push a shaft along with its corresponding "assembler's rod" until the part to be taken out is almost reached, then pull the shaft on out far enough to clear the part. For example: Before pushing out an accumulator wheel shaft 183 lay the "assembler's rod" over the accumulator wheels to see how far to push it in.
    To remove parts and then replace them first study the removal of each part as described under its own heading which may be located through the Assembly Index (following).

Parts (by number)
Name of PartsAssembly No.Page
Case  116
Oiling Strip  216
Shaft Locking Clips  316
*Keys  417
*Key Plate  518
*Segment Lever and Lock Lever  618
Segment Lever Springs  719
Key Stop Levers  820
*Key Stops  921
Brake1021
Subtraction Lever1121
Numeral Wheel1222
Rock Frame1322
Carrying Gear, Escapement Wheel and Carrying Spring1424
Carrying Detents1525
Carrying Bell Crank1626
Back Stop1727
Accumulator1827
*Release Plate1928
*Accumulator Locking Hook2028
*Pinion Ratchet Reverse Lock2128
*Trigger2229
*Segment Lever Locking Hook2329
*Trigger Retainer (vertical)2429
*Trigger Retainer (horizontal)2530
*Touch Off Bar2630
*Column Lock Retainer Bar2731
Right Hand Support Frame Plate2831
Rock Frame Actuating Shaft2932
Detaining Toggle3032
Detaining Toggle Release3133
Zero-Signal Bell3233
* Assembly instructions marked with star (*) are only for those who have been trained and authorized to make repairs that require such removal.
Parts (alphabetical)
Name of PartsAssembly No.Page
Accumulator1827
*Accumulator Locking Hook2028
Back Stop1727
Brake1021
Carrying Bell Crank1626
Carrying Detents1525
Carrying Gear, Escapement Wheel and Carrying Spring1424
Case  116
*Column Lock Retainer Bar2731
Detaining Toggle3032
Detaining Toggle Release3133
*Key Plate  518
Key Stop Levers  820
*Key Stops  921
*Keys  417
Numeral Wheel1222
Oiling Strip  216
*Pinion Ratchet Reverse Lock2128
*Release Plate1928
Right Hand Support Frame Plate2831
Rock Frame1322
Rock Frame Actuating Shaft2932
*Segment Lever and Lock Lever  618
*Segment Lever Locking Hook2329
Segment Lever Springs  719
Shaft Locking Clips  316
Subtraction Lever1121
*Touch Off Bar2630
*Trigger2229
*Trigger Retainer (vertical)2429
*Trigger Retainer (horizontal)2530
Zero-Signal Bell3233
* Assembly instructions marked with star (*) are only for those who have been trained and authorized to make repairs that require such removal.

Assembling the H-Model


Zero Crank
(Cut 1)

Assembly No. 1

Case

    To remove the "Comptometer" from its case:
    Take out the screw T-59 in hub of zero crank T-55 on the right side of the machine and take off the crank by grasping its hub and pulling it out. (See Fig. 9.) Take out the two screws 74 from the lower front of the face plate over numeral wheels. Grasp the face plate at each side of the case and draw it straight forward. Lift the machine, turn it over and lay it down squarely on the keys. Do not roll it over as that might bend the keys. Remove the four case big bottom screws 249, one of which you will find near each corner of the case bottom, and lift the case straight upward off the machine.

Assembly No. 2

Oiling Strip T-723

Located under face plate in front


(Cut 2)
    Lift front end of prongs and remove, but make sure that you do not bend the prongs; note how it locks into frame plates 951 before you remove it.

Assembly No. 3

Shaft Locking Clips

Located on left side under support frame plate


Shaft Holding Plate T-698
(Cut 3)
    This lock plate is pivoted to outside of left hand frame plate 953 and locks the shaft 784 for key stops and shaft 186 for trigger retainers 681 and 681½. When locked the key stop lever stop shaft T-784 will pass through the plate but must be moved to the right to unlock the plate and allow the said shafts 784 and 186 to be removed. The shaft T-784 acts as a safety device against leaving the plate unlocked as when it is moved to the right it will prevent the machine being put in the case until again moved to left to lock the plate. So it should be looked to that the plate is locked.
    The segment lever spring shaft 839 is grooved and held by a clip 787 (see Fig. 6) to prevent the shaft from shifting to the left and unhooking the special right hand segment lever spring T-601.
    The detaining toggle release trip shaft 928 is also locked by a bronze clip 925 similar to the clip 787 and holds the shaft from shifting end-wise and is a convenience in disconnecting link 993.
    There are two column lock retainer shafts 688 extending through the column lock retainer arms 685. Near the left end of each of these two shafts (see Fig. 6) is a wide flat groove in which rests the bronze column lock shaft clip 695 which holds the shafts from sliding endways. Before putting the machine back in the case, be careful to see that the bronze clip fits down into the grooves of these shafts. If you have any trouble with a machine not unlocking when you touch the release button 625 near the (9) key, or when you cancel, look at once to see that these two shafts are both held in proper position by the bronze clip. In locking these shafts in with the bronze clip, be sure to have the bronze clip on the side of the shaft nearest to the key plate.
    The little square shaft 691 (see Fig. 6) is also held in place by a bronze clip 694 resting in a groove. Always see that this shaft is property locked in place by its bronze clip before putting the machine in the case.
    On each end of the rock frame (see Cuts 19 and 20) are two shaft holding plates. The right or flat plate 974 may be seen in Fig. 9, and the left hand plate 1216 is offset and is best seen in the Cut 19. These plates are so pivoted to the rock frame as to require that they cover all the shafts before the rock frame may be assembled in the main frame, since if not in a locked position the lock plates cover the pivot holes on which the rock frame swings and will prevent assembling the rock frame pivot shaft.
    The rock frame toggle link pivot shaft 865 located at the front of the machine (see Fig. 2) is provided with a collar clinched on the right hand end which co-acts with a spring clip and serves as a means for holding it from displacement endwise. The clip 1233 (see Cut 21) is riveted to the right hand toggle lever 1234 and serves to hold the collar of the toggle link pivot shaft between it and the toggle lever.

Assembly No. 4

Keys


Key
(Cut 4)
    To take out: Stand the machine on its rear end with the crank side facing you. With the thumb of your left hand unhook the key piece spring 111 from the frame plate 951. Tilt the key spring piece 113½

Key Spring Piece
(Located at Bottom)
(Cut 5)


Key Piece Spring 111
(Cut 6)

a little toward the right and lift its forward end off the key stem. Rehook the key piece spring to the frame plate. Set the machine down in its normal position and pull the key straight up. In removing the (9) key depress about half way, push unhooked spring to right and while holding key spring piece in tilted position, pull out key. When replacing the key take care to keep it in a perpendicular position so that it will enter between the segment lever T-580 and the key stop lever (odd) 590.
    Bear in mind that the key piece springs of the (1) and (2) keys are a little heavier than those on the other keys. Be careful, therefore, to see that the key piece springs (heavy) 110 are used only on (1) and (2) keys.

Assembly No. 5

Key Plate

    To take off: First take out all of the keys (Assembly 4), beginning with the row of 9's, then the 8's, etc. Remove from the top of the key plate the four screws 74 which are located a short distance back of the (9) keys, and unlatch the key plate lock clips 903-904 at rear of machine by pressing them inwardly and lifting on key plate at the same time. Then lift the key plate off the machine.
    In replacing the key plate be sure that its extreme front end catches under the bent-over ears of the frame plates 951; also see that the small projecting points of the frame enter their respective holes in the key plate, and that the lock clips lock the rear end securely. Before putting on the plate it is best to have the lock clips raised at the rear so that they stand at an angle of about 45 degrees.

Assembly No. 6

Segment Lever and Lock Lever

Located under keys in each section


(Cut 7)
  To remove a segment lever: Remove screws from 3 lower and rear tie rods and with "assembler's rods" slide the tie rods endwise so as to remove tubes in the column involved. Remove detaining toggle release bar (Assembly 31, see note). Remove the keys (Assembly 4) in the columns involved, the numeral wheel, key spring pieces, except (1) key spring piece. Remove trigger connection T-672 and spring 773 (see Fig. 2) from segment lever bell crank 586. Unhook segment lever springs at bottom of machine. (If segment lever in first column remove right hand support plate, Assembly 28). Slide subtraction, lever shaft for clearance, clear segment lever shaft in same way. Stand machine on rear end and pull rear end of lever out through bottom of machine until the lever stands almost at a right angle with the bottom of the machine, then extricate the front end from between the key stops 591-594 using great care not to force it. If it should catch and you should force it, the result would be a bent and distorted lever that could not be used again. If it catches look to find the cause and it will be found that a slight movement one side or the other will free it without distorting or spoiling the lever.

(Cut 8)
    To replace segment lever: Stand machine on rear end and reverse the order of removal of segment lever except that the installation requires great care that the lever is put in its proper place with relation

Hand Gauge
(Cut 9)
to the other parts which can only be arrived at through study of the drawings and instruction. Make sure that the carrying bell crank hook T-166 (Fig. 4) is above the roll 86. Before replacing the segment lever pivot shaft see that the rack of the segment is properly meshed with the ratchet pinion which may be accomplished by pulling the segment back and turning the ratchet around until it is in the proper position, then by holding the front of the rack up with a hook slide it forward into engagement with the pinion and replace pivot shaft. The relation of the crescent shaped mark on ratchet with the segment lever is the same as in the Models E and F. But no attention with regard to its relation with the accumulator pins or gears are necessary in Models G and H, as the gearing is all figured on multiples of ten from the accumulator to the numeral wheel which requires only the adjustment of the numeral wheel as a final setting providing the segment lever has been properly meshed with the ratchet pinion 76. There has been special provision made for such adjustment by milling one of the spaces between the teeth of the pinion to a much greater depth so that a gauge may be inserted that will insure the setting of the ratchet while the segment lever is being installed (see Cuts 8 and 9). Thus the segment lever if held up in front by a hook and pushed forward from the rear may be properly meshed while the pinion is so held. Replace trigger connection T-672 and hook spring 773. Be sure that trigger connection is inside of the arm of the brake T-220 (see Fig. 2). Replace frame rods and be sure to tighten screws.
    To remove the lock lever from the segment lever, unhook the segment lever bell crank spring 610, then swing the lock lever around to the right-angle position and take it off of the segment lever.
    If the installation of a new segment lever has taken place, it may be necessary to readjust the eccentric frame tube 16 which acts as a stop for the up-stroke of the segment lever. This adjustment is gauged in Model H by the position of the teeth in the accumulator gear T-70. In order to perform this gauging operation the rock frame must be removed (see Assembly 13). An indicator gauge specially arranged and provided for this purpose may be entered in the section and the rock frame pivot rod 826 threaded through it. The gauge may then be swung so that an arm of it will contact with the shaft 183K and one end of the indicator arrow or pointer will enter the teeth of the gear T-70. By adjusting the eccentric tube 16 until indicator arrow indicates zero, the proper adjustment may be made.

Assembly No. 7

Segment Lever Springs

Located at rear of machine


Segment Lever Spring 601
(Cut 10)
   To take out: Lay the machine on the keys bottom side up with its back end toward you. Unhook the eye of the spring from the arm on segment lever T-580, using a small hook. Then pass the small hook through the center of the spring and lift the other eye off the spring rod 183 or 839.

Large Hooked Tweezers for Segment Lever Springs
(Cut 11)
  To put in a segment lever spring 601 or T-601, insert both forks of the large hooked spring tweezers into the end of the spring which has the closed eye. With the forks of the tweezers straddling and the eye leaning against the hooked fork, slide the tweezers in as far as they will go without forcing. Then using the tweezers as a handle, hook one end of the spring onto the spring rod 183 or 839 as the case may be, and pull the tweezers out until the spring stretches a little; then pinch the forks together and continue to pull them out. As the ends of the forks fly out of the spring the hooked fork will catch onto the eye of the spring and it can easily be rehooked onto the hook of the segment lever.
    When placing the right-hand segment lever spring 601 onto the front spring rod 839 be sure to hook it at the left side of the brake spring 202 which is also hooked onto this rod: after both springs are hooked, slide them to the left on their rods so they cannot touch the even key stop lever 592.
    The right hand spring of the units order T-601 is smaller in diameter in order that it may operate in the small space between the first frame plate 952 and the right hand support frame plate 840.
   

Assembly No. 8

KEY STOP LEVERS

Located under keys in each section


Odd 590

Even 592
(Cuts 12 and 13)
    To take out: First remove the keys and the key plate. (Assembly 4 and 5.) Then clear brake shaft and with your large assembler's rod push out the pivot shaft for key stop levers far enough to pass through the right side of the hubs; then draw the assembler's rod back so as to free the right side of the hubs, leaving the slotted sides of the hubs on the assembler's rod, or shaft, as the case may be. Place a finger on the hub of the key stop lever (odd) and move it toward the front of the machine as far as it will go, and while holding it there move the key stop levers (odd) and (even) off of the arms of the stops (odd) 591 and (even) 594. Now place your screwdriver on the lock lever 680½ and press it down to about where a (9) key would take it; grasp the hubs of both keystop levers and pull them out from the rear of the machine.
    To replace the key stop levers the operation is simply reversed. But take care to have the slotted side of the hubs straddle the frame plate 951; also see that the front end of the key stop lever (odd) enters between the key stop (odd) and the left side of the (1) key.

Assembly No. 9

Odd Key Stop (Short) 591
Even Key Stop (Long) 594

Located at front under (1) and (2) keys

 

Even Key Stop (Long) 594
(Cut 14)
  To take out: First remove in the order named: The keys and key plate (Assembly 4 and 5), release plate (Assembly 19), key stop levers (Assembly 8), and clear.
    Unhook the key stop springs (odd) 607 and (even) 608 from their respective lugs on frame plates 951. This can best be done by placing the large end of your scratch-awl on the springs a little in front of the lugs on the frame plate 951 and move them downward while lifting their hooks out of the lugs.

Odd key Stop (Short) 591
(Cut 15)
Clear lock plate T-698 (Assembly 3), and with your large assembler's rod push out the key stop pivot shaft far enough to clear the hubs of the key stops. Then take out the key stop (odd) 591. Now lift up the key stop (even) 594 and, while taking it out, turn it gradually from the left to right. To replace, the process is simply reversed — but take care to hook the springs securely.

Assembly No. 10

Brake T-220

Located at rear center in each section


(Cut 16)
    To remove: First remove keys and key plate (Assembly 4 and 5), then unhook the brake spring 202 from segment lever spring shaft and with large assembler's rod push out brake shaft the required distance and remove brake through top of the machine. To replace, reverse order.

Assembly No. 11

Subtraction Lever T-604

Located in each section at front


(Cut 17)
    To remove: First remove the (1) and (2) keys (Assembly 4) and numeral wheel (Assembly 12) in the order involved and numeral wheel and intermediate gear in next lower order. Clear the subtraction lever and the accumulator locking hook shafts and unhook and remove subtraction lever spring 609. Then depress the (9) key and shove an assembler's shaft in from the front over the lower front tie rod and under toggle link shaft 183K and over the stud 585 of the segment lever (see Figs. 4 and 5), which will be a means of holding the segment lever down and facilitate the removal. The subtraction lever may now be removed by first clearing it from frame by a slight twist, then move to right, taking care to swing back pinion ratchet reverse lock 783, while moving it to right and to keep it upright. The lever may now be drawn through opening in frame at rear of numeral wheel shaft lug and out through the next lower order without straining or bending it. To replace, reverse the order of operation, taking care that everything is properly replaced and that the new lever performs its function. When the lower end has been inserted through the frame depress the (9) key about half way and enter the point in a notch of the ratchet and by farther depression of the key it will be found that the lever will pass freely. Be sure, in replacing intermediate gear, that you have the recessed side toward the left as it will not mesh with carrying gear otherwise.

Assembly No. 12

Numeral Wheel


(Cut 18)
    To take out: With your small assembler's rod, measure the distance from the side of the machine to the frame plate 951 on the near side of the column from which the numeral wheel is to be removed. Slide the assembler's rod in up to the distance measured, pull the shaft 186 enough further on to release the numeral wheel. In replacing the numeral wheel be sure to get it properly meshed with intermediate gear T-361.

Assembly No. 13

Rock Frame Assemble

Located at front end of machine



(Cuts 19 and 20)

    To remove: First loosen the left hand tie rod screw of the lower front tie rod and swing down all the linoleum guards 837, and pull forward zero crank to disengage the gears. In order to keep the carrying gears in position while removing and replacing the rock frame, a means for locking them has been provided by inserting a lock rod through the rock frame toggle levers (see Cut 21). The rod is a regular No. 52 rod cut to the length of the rock frame. By inserting the rod through the opening in the support frame plate the zero stop will be held from rocking out from under the stop lugs of the carrying gear and in the position shown in Cut 21. Next lift shaft clip 1235 on right hand toggle lever (See Fig. 2 and Cut 21), and draw to right and remove the toggle link pivot shaft 865 and see that the links 823 all drop. Now remove the toggle actuating link support shaft 183K, making sure that each link drops below shaft and that the pin 983 (see Fig. 5) clears jaw of toggle lever 1241; then return the shaft to its original position and depress a key which will rock the links against the shaft 183K and up out of danger of being bent and from getting over back of their actuating shaft and will also simplify the installation of the rock frame.

(Cut 21)
Cross Section of Rock Frame
Now the numeral wheels and their intermediate gears T-361 may be removed (the shaft of the gears also acts as the pivot shaft of the rock frame) which will leave the rock frame ready to be removed from the main frame. But great care should be used until frame is removed not to depress any of the keys. The rock frame being disconnected; such an act will allow the hook T-166 of the carrying bell crank to be released from the pin of the accumulator wheel and the bell crank to swing forward and interfere with the removal of the rock frame until the bell crank is again swung forward and the hook T-166 latched on the accumulator pin with the roll of the segment lever holding it in position as shown in Fig. 4 of the drawings. In event of such error the segment lever must first be depressed by a key in that order while the bell crank is rocked rearward by depressing the tail which is accessible from the opening left by removal of the numeral wheels; while holding the bell crank rocked rearward release the key and the segment lever returning will latch the hook T-166 in position again. The rock frame may now be removed by lifting it slightly and rocking the lower part forward to clear the escapements from the duplex hooks which are integral with the bell crank hooks T-166 (See Fig. 4). Now lower and rock the bottom rearward and the top forward without forcing it. The top tie rod screw on the right will now clear the support frame plate and allow the rock frame to move a little to the right. At this stage it will be found that the space between the loop or hub of the left hand carrying escapement detent and the adjacent tie rod forms a pocket that will straddle the pivot ear of the frame for the toggle link 823 and thus forms a pivot for the rock frame to swing on and finally clear the frame. While from the explanation this removal may seem complicated, once it has been accomplished it is extremely simple.
    To replace the rock frame: First see that all the carrying springs are tensioned and that the zero stops 1246 hold them. This may be brought about by rotating the large carrying gears and throwing the zero stops under the zero lugs of the carrying gears through moving the front arms of the toggle levers 1241 (see Cut 21 and Fig. 5). As each gear and zero lever is set, the lock rod should be threaded through the hole in levers 1241 to hold the setting until the rock frame is installed and the toggles are connected again with their links 823. Before you start to replace the rock frame be sure that all the carrying bell crank hooks T-166 are in place over the rolls 86 of the segment levers, and that none of detent springs have become unhooked; also see that the shaft holding plates at each end of rock frame are in locked position or they will block the pivot holes in the rock frame so that the pivot shaft will not enter. The rock frame may now be replaced in main frame by reversing the order of removal. In entering the lower end of frame see that tie rod screw on right side passes under the thrust stud in right hand support frame plate. In moving the frame to the left be careful not to enter it too far into the opening as if it is pushed too far in it will catch on the carrying bell cranks and interfere with its being moved to the left and may catch and unhook the detent springs which will require the removal of the rock frame again to correct. It will be noted that the rock frame plates have a pair of lugs, A and B (see Figs. 2 and 4); these lugs straddle the mainframe plates and must be positioned before the rock frame may be lifted to itshinged position and the pivot shaft 826 inserted. Before replacing toggle link shaft 865 (which is the next function) see that the rock frame swings free with its own weight and before replacing the actuating link support shaft 183K be sure that the zero stops have been released by removal of the lock rod from the toggle levers. Now stand the machine on its rear end and remove support shaft 183K which will allow the pins 983 of the links 982 to re-engage the jaws of the toggle levers 1241 and the shaft 183K to be threaded through the slots in the actuating links 982 as in Fig. 5 of the drawings. Test the machine by operating zero crank and depressing a key to see that the gears mesh properly which should be if care has been taken to see that carrying springs were tensioned and stop lugs were against zero stops and locked before the rock frame was inserted.
    In handling the rock frame care should be used or it may become slightly twisted, enough to interfere with the proper working of the toggles; this will show when the rock frame is reassembled by the relative position of the stop arms of the toggle links 823 as the zero crank is pulled forward and held. If the rock frame has become twisted in handling, there will be a greater space between the stop arm and the toggle lever 1241 at one end of the rock frame than at the other. An examination for this error should always be made after installation of the rock frame. To correct this condition rock the rock frame inward by depressing a key, then pull the zero crank about half way forward and with machine standing on its rear end insert screwdriver under middle tie rod of rock frame at low end and over lower front tie rod of main frame; pry up end of rock frame while holding the other end down with fingers until the twist is out and the stop arms of the links 823 at both ends show equal engagement. Once the rock frame has been made parallel there is no way it can become misplaced while in the machine as the arrangement is so devised that the action will keep perfect alignment.

Assembly No. 14

Carrying Gear 830, Escapement Wheel T-155 and Carrying Gear Spring 204


Carrying Gear
(Cut 22)

Located at front in rack frame


Escapement T-155
(Cut 23)
Carrying Gear Spring 204
(Cut 24)
    To take out: First remove the rock frame (see Assembly 13) and clear the clips at each end of rock frame. Attach carrying gear clamp and with assembler's rod clear the shaft and remove.
    When separating the escapement wheel T-155 from the carrying gear 830 be careful not to let them fly apart, as it will damage the spring; let the escapement wheel and spring unwind slowly. Note that the escapement wheel and carrying gear in the last column to the left is not interchangeable in other columns.
    To assemble the carrying

Carrying Gear Clamp in position for holding Carrying Gear and Escapement while taking out and reinserting them.
(Cut 25)
gear, escapement wheel and carrying gear spring 204, hold the carrying gear with the thumb and index finger of the left hand. Place the large end of the carrying gear spring over the carrying gear hub so that its hook lies between the carrying gear roll and the carrying gear spring pin 137. With your tweezers force the hook of the carrying spring around and well under the collar of the carrying gear spring pin. Also see that it lies between the carrying gear short pin 141 and the carrying gear hub 131. Place the hub of the escapement wheel into the carrying gear hub 131, and at the same time have the cross-bent end of the carrying gear spring enter clear to the bottom of the slot in the hub of the escapement wheel. Turn the escapement wheel from left to right until its longest arm has passed the carrying gear spring pin 137 two times, which means one and one-half complete turns of the escapement wheel. Attach the clamp, as shown in cut, and when thus clamped insert into the rock frame.
    Just before the hubs of the escapement wheel and carrying gear are in line with their shaft T-386 the clamp may interfere with the locking dog T-707. If it does, move the locking dog out of the way by pressing it back. You can then slide the shaft through without any difficulty. Remove the clamp, and test the action of the escapement by rotating the carrying gear by hand.

Assembly No. 15

Carrying Detents 160 and T-161

Located at front in rock frame


Carrying Detent
(Hooked) 160

Carrying Detent
(Straight) T-161

(Cuts 26 and 27)

    To take out: First remove rock frame (see Assembly 13) and clear the shaft clips. Unhook the carrying detent spring 214 1/20 from the carrying detent (hooked) 160. With your medium assembler's rod push out the (hooked) carrying detent shaft T-183 far enough to release the detent (hooked) and pick it out with your fingers. Slide out the detent stop shaft T-186 and with another of your medium assembler's rods push out the (straight) detent shaft 183 far enough to release the detent (straight) and pick it out with your fingers.
    When putting back the carrying detent (straight) be sure to insert it between the carrying gear guard and the carrying spring 204 and after inserting the carrying detent (hooked) be sure to hook securely the carrying detent spring 214 1/20.
    Before replacing rock frame test the detents by rotating the large carrying gear with the fingers, being careful to note that the detents do not bind on guard and that they are otherwise properly positioned, especially with relation to rolls and spring pin.

Carrying Detent Spring 214 1/20

See Fig. 5

    Handle this spring in just the same way as described for carrying bell crank spring 213 (see Assembly 16), but it will be much easier if you have the rock frame out while doing it. Be careful to get the eyes of the springs securely fastened at both ends.
    Note. — There are two detents T-160 and 961 located in the end of the rock frame which act as detents to an overflow escapement (see Fig. 6). These detents are different in form but function the same as the carrying detents and the same method of procedure is used to remove and replace them.

Assembly No. 16

Carrying Bell Crank

Located in front, back of rock frame

    To remove: First remove rock frame (Assembly 13). Then unhook front end of carrying bell crank spring

(Cut 28)
213 and depress the segment lever to free the carrying bell crank hook T-166 from the roll 86 of the segment lever. By clearing the bell crank shaft the bell crank may be removed with the fingers, but care must be taken in the use of the assembler's rod not to let the back stop spring get caught while pushing the end of the rod by the springs. To replace, reverse the order of operation but before replacing the rock frame make sure that the bell crank hook is positioned right with the roll 86 of the segment lever and when the rock frame has been replaced that the locking dog T-707 and the front end of the bell crank are well positioned.

Hooked Tweezers Just After Slipping Out
(Cut 29)

Hooked Tweezers for Small Springs Just Before Slipping Out of End of Spring
(Cut 30)

Carrying Bell Crank Spring 213

    To take out: Use the hooked tweezers for small springs. Hook the tweezers into the outer eye of the spring from the direction shown above. Note particularly that the tweezers are hooked into the eye of the spring from one particular direction, so that the eye of the spring leans toward the hook just as shown in the cuts. After unhooking that end of the spring, close the tweezers and pass both points well up inside the spring. Then unhook the other end of the spring from the lug of carrying bell crank 162, leaving the spring on the tweezers.
    To put in carrying bell crank spring 213: If the spring is not already on the hooked tweezers, pass both points of the tweezers up inside the spring (see Cut 30), being careful to enter them so that the eye of the spring leans toward the hook as shown. Then hook one end of the spring securely onto the carrying bell crank T-162 and, without squeezing the tweezers, pull outwardly on them until the spring is stretched; then squeeze the tweezers, allowing the spring to slip off the end of the tweezers with the eye of the spring hooked onto the tweezers. Then hook the end of the spring onto the spring shaft.

Assembly No. 17

Backstop 171 and T-171

Located in front, back of rock frame


Back Stop 171
(Cut 31)
Backstop Spring 211
(Cut 32)
Back Stop T-171
(Cut 33)
    To remove: First remove rock frame (Assembly 13). Slide the blade of backstop spring hook down along the left side of the frame plate 951 at the right side of the column from which the backstop is to be removed and unhook the backstop spring 211.
   

Backstop Spring Hook
(Cut 34)
    With a medium assembler's rod push out the shaft to the far side of the backstop to be removed and while holding the backstop spring 211 with your tweezers draw the shaft back a little and take the spring out. Then take out the backstop. The backstop T-171 is used only in last order to the left and is not interchangeable with other orders.
 When replacing a backstop be sure that it has plenty of room on its shaft between the frame plate and the carrying bell crank T-162. Also see that it does not touch the accumulator locking hook T-683 and that its spring is securely hooked.

Assembly No. 18

Accumulator Wheel T-61, and Pinion Ratchet 75

Located in front, back of rock frame


(Cut 35)
    To remove: First remove rock frame (Assembly 13) and carrying bell crank (Assembly 16) which will allow removal by clearing the accumulator shaft. To replace: it will be found easy to assemble and replace with the fingers but the old accumulator clamp may be used, but only as a convenience in handling, as the assembly of the accumulator and ratchet may be in any relative position. The ratchet pinion setting with the segment rack is the same as in Model F. This setting has been described and illustrated with respect to the replacing of the segment levers (see Assembly 6) by the use of a special gauge. (See also Cut 8.)

Assembly No. 19

Release Plate 739

Located in front, under key plate

See Figs. 6 and 7


(Cut 36)
    To take out: First remove the keys and the key plate (Assembly 4 and 5). Then unhook the top end of the release plate spring 793 from the release plate. Remove the right hand support frame plate (Assembly 28) and move the release plate to right until it clears the arms of pinion ratchet reverse locks and lift out.
    To replace the release plate reverse the process. Take care to properly rehook the release plate spring and tighten the frame rod screws, and also see that the arms of the pinion ratchet reverse locks cannot slip off the edge of the arms of release plate.

Assembly No. 20

Accumulator Locking Hook T-683

Located in front, under key plate


(Cut 37)
    To remove: First remove numeral wheel (Assembly 12), (1) key (Assembly 4), and pinion ratchet reverse lock (Assembly 21); zeroize machine; clear lock plate (Assembly 3) and key stop shaft so that only right hand arms are supported. Then free the rear or slotted end from trigger connection pin 674 (see Fig. 3) by pulling it forward, then with the rear end dropped shove it rearward, raising the front end, and then it may be taken out through the front of the machine by pulling the carrying bell crank hub forward with hook. If the keys (Assembly 4) and key plate have been removed (Assembly 5) it will be found much easier to remove it through the top by drawing it back and up. If, however, the keys and key plate have not been removed and you have not had experience with the removal of the hook, it would be best to remove the rock frame (Assembly 13) and the carrying bell crank (Assembly 16) which will make it unnecessary to remove the pinion ratchet reverse lock 783; its spring will have to be unhooked however.
    To replace, reverse the order of operations.

Assembly No. 21

Pinion Ratchet Reverse Lock 783

Located in front, in each section


Pinion Ratchet
Reverse Lock 783
(Cut 38)
    To remove: First remove subtraction lever (Assembly 11), replace subtraction lever shaft, unhook pinion ratchet reverse lock spring (see Fig. 3), clear key stop and accumulator locking hook shafts, and while holding with spring hook tweezers clear subtraction shaft, depress the (9) key and remove through front of machine by lowering it first to clear the accumulator locking hook. If key plate has been removed it will be found much easier to remove the reverse lock 783 through the top of the machine. To replace, reverse operations. It will be found of great advantage to use a piece of fine wire or a linen thread in replacing as it may be hooked through the reverse lock and when the lock is secured in place may be withdrawn, without the danger of losing hold of it that there would be with hook or tweezers.

Assembly No. 22

Trigger

Located at top center, in each section


(Cut 39)
    To take out: First remove keys and key plate (Assembly 4 and 5), then unhook trigger connection spring 773 (see Fig. 3) from trigger connection T-672 and slide the connection off segment lever bell crank pin 587½, clear column of shafts T-784 and 183-H, draw 183-H to right, clear key stop levers of their pivot shaft and slide the levers off key stops and back a little, unhook both segment lever springs and push the segment lever down. The trigger may now be removed by clearing its pivot shaft and moving the trigger back until the pin 674 in front end is clear of the jaw of the accumulator locking hook T-683; the trigger can then be lifted forward and up out of the machine.
    To replace, reverse the order.

Assembly No. 23

Segment Lever Locking Hook 682

Located at top center, in each section


(Cut 40)
    To take out: First remove the keys and key plate (Assembly 4 and 5).
    Unhook the lower end of the segment lever locking hook spring 613 (see Fig. 3) from the trigger retainer horizontal 681½. With your medium assembler's rod push out the segment lever locking hook shaft far enough to release the one which is to be removed and take it out with your tweezers.
    When replacing the segment lever locking hook be careful to see that it has plenty of side play on its shaft, hook its spring 613 securely and see that it latches the hook on segment lever when the column lock retainer arm (left) 686 has dropped in front of the touch-off bar (1/16 sq.) 691 on a partial key stroke.

Assembly No. 24

Trigger Retainer (Vertical) 681

Located at top center, in each section


(Cut 41)
    To take out: First remove the keys and the key plate (Assembly 4 and 5). Then take out the touch-off bar (Assembly 26). Unhook the trigger retainer (vertical) spring 613 (see Fig. 3) from the little hook on the frame plate 951. Place a scratch-awl on the lock lever 680½ and push it down as far as it will go; this will lock the segment lever and let the foot of the trigger, which works on it, drop out of the way. With your small assembler's rod push out the shaft for the trigger retainers (vertical) 681 and (horizontal) 681½ far enough to release the trigger retainer (vertical) and take it out with your tweezers or small hook, toward the rear. While replacing the trigger retainer (vertical) keep its spring 613 laying on top of its hub.

Assembly No. 25

Trigger Retainer (Horizontal) 681½

Located at top center, in each section


(Cut 42)
    To take out: First remove in the order named: The keys and key plate (Assembly 4 and 5), touch-off (Assembly 26) and trigger retainer (vertical) (Assembly 24). With your large assembler's rod inserted at the right side of the machine, push out the shaft T-784 (see Figs. 3 and 7) far enough for its right end to get in line with the frame plate 951 at the right side of the column from which the trigger retainer (horizontal) is to be removed. Then draw the assembler's rod back until its end almost reaches the foot of the trigger retainer (vertical) in the next column to the right. Unhook the segment lever locking hook spring 613 from the trigger retainer (horizontal). Then place your scratch-awl on the lock lever 680½ and depress it clear down so as to lock the segment lever T-580 out of the way. Slide the shaft for the trigger retainers out of the hub of the trigger retainer (horizontal). Now slide the trigger retainer (horizontal) back a little so as to get its foot which works in connection with the hook on segment lever T-580 past the stop lever guard pin 595 on the frame plate 951, then swing it upward and take it out front end first.
    To replace the trigger retainer (horizontal) the operation is reversed, but take care not to bend any of the parts.

Assembly No. 26

Touch-Off Bar

Located transversely across top, center of machine


(Cut 43)
    To take out: First remove the keys and the key plate (Assembly 4 and 5). Then unhook the touch-off spring 612 from the little hook on the frame plate (last) 953. Hold the touch-off lock 694 out of the groove in the touch-off bar (1/16 sq.) 691 (see Fig. 6) and push it out of the left side of the machine, then draw the shaft for the trigger retainers (vertical) and (horizontal) 681½ just far enough to the right for its left end to pass through the touch-off arm (left) 690. Loosen the frame rod screw 126 which is located on left side at top center of machine. Place your screwdriver between the left end of the touch-off bar (1/8×1/4) 687 and the frame plate (last) 953 and turn it enough to pry the end of the bar out of the hole in the frame plate and lift it out of the machine.
    To replace: Just reverse the operation, taking care to adjust the touch-off lock 694 so that it holds the touch-off bar (1/16 sq.) 691, and see that the end of the touch-off bar (1/8×1/4) 687 does not bind in the frame plates (first) 952 and (last) 953.

Assembly No. 27

Column Lock Retainer Bar

Located transversely at top, center of machine


(Cut 44)
    To take out: Remove the keys and key plate (Assembly 4 and 5) and lift the column lock shaft clip 695 (see Fig. 6). Then slide out ofthe left side of the machine the two column lock retainer shafts 688. Place the blade of a screwdriver between the left end of the column lock retainer bar 687 and the frame plate (last) 953 and turn it enough to pry the end of bar out of the hole in frame plate and lift the column lock retainer bar out of the machine.
    When replacing the column lock retainer bar 687 see that the column lock shaft clip 695 holds the two shafts 688 securely.

Assembly No. 28

Right Hand Support Frame Plate

Located on right hand side of machine


(Cut 45)
    To remove: Place machine on its left side and remove all tie rod screws on that side and lift off frame, taking care that the rock frame actuating shaft 980, the release plate 739 and the detaining toggle release rock shaft 922 all clear their bearings in the frame plate. The frame plate acts as a support for the zero crank and link mechanism and when removed forms a simple means of getting at these parts. Unlike former models, the removal of this end plate does not disorganize the machine as all the principal tie rods are still held by spreader nuts that prevent the loosening of the other frame plates. In replacing make sure the actuating shaft 980, the release plate shaft 741 and detaining toggle release shaft are all in their bearings at both ends before screwing plate on.

Assembly No. 29

Rock Frame Actuating Shaft

Located transversely near front at bottom


(Cut 46)

Located at bottom on left
(See Fig. 6)


(Cut 47)
    To remove: First pull zero crank forward and remove the support shaft 183K from the slots of the actuating links 982 (see Assembly 13) and pull the links down so that their pins 983 clear the jaw of toggle levers 1241 and return shaft to place again; with spring hook, unhook the link 915 of the shaft spring 1272 (located in 9th order, see Fig. 6 and Cut 47) by pulling it forward until the larger opening at end of slot will allow it to be removed to the left from the stud 987. Now remove right hand support frame plate (Assembly 28) and slide shaft to right so that slotted end of the front detaining toggle link 990 clears the stud 987; the shaft may now be lifted clear of the machine.
    To replace, reverse the order of operation, making sure that the actuating links are connected up with the toggle levers 1241 as per instructions for replacing rock frame (see Assembly 13).

Assembly No. 30

Detaining Toggle and Release Link

Located near bottom, in left hand section (see Fig. 6)


(Cut 48)
    To remove: First pull zero crank forward and with spring hook release actuating shaft spring 1272 (Fig. 6) by pulling its spring link forward until the larger opening at the end of the slot will allow it to be removed to left off the stud 987 (see Cut 47), next remove the trip shaft 928 (Assembly 31) of the release bar 922 by sliding it out through left side of machine and free the link 993. By loosening the left hand tie rod screws of the three lower tie rods the frame plates may be sprung apart so that the toggle shaft 994 may be removed from its bearings in the frame and the link 990 unhooked from the stud 987.
    In replacing make sure the slotted link of the toggle is over the stud 987 before the shaft 994 is entered in its bearings and that the rear end of the release link 993 is under its loop on the left hand arm of the release bar 922 before the trip shaft 928 is replaced.

Assembly No. 31

Detaining Toggle Release Bar

Located transversely at bottom rear center


(Cut 49)
    To remove: First unhook lower end of bell hammer spring 968 and release trip shaft clip 925 (Fig. 6). Then slide the trip shaft 928 to the left and out through the arms 924 and remove bell hammer. Loosen right hand support frame plate (Assembly 28) enough to free pivot ends and remove through bottom.
    To replace, reverse the order and make sure that the release link (Fig. 6) is under the loop of the left hand arm of release bar when trip shaft is replaced as the loop keeps it in place laterally.

Assembly No. 32

The Zero Signal Bell

Located in left hand section at rear (Fig. 6)


(Cut 50)
    The gong of the bell is riveted fast to the left hand support frame.
    The bell hammer may be removed by unhooking the bell hammer spring 968. Next remove detaining toggle trip shaft 928 (see Assembly 31). The hammer may now be removed through the bottom of frame.
    To replace bell hammer, reverse the order of removal.
    The proper working of a bell depends upon the bell hammer striking the bell gong and the instant retraction of the bell hammer to allow the gong to vibrate. On account of the fine adjustment required, the bell hammer has been provided with a stop arm made long and slender to allow its being slightly bent for adjustment. While there should be no occasion for adjustment of the bell hammer after a machine leaves the factory, there is a possibility that the hammer may become bent through careless removal by a repair man and require readjustment. The signal should be clear under an ordinary key stroke. A slow depression will not give as sharp an alarm as a quick stroke.

Figures: 1, 2, 3, 4 & 5, 6, 7, 8, 9.
Sectional View
Click here to return to "H-repairs"
eMail